-I have an idea that has been going around in my head for a long time.

-What is it?

-I want to go to South America. To Patagonia. 

That's how easy it is to land a goal. In my case, I had this conversation with a friend in a bar in France. But what did I know at the time of the wonders that awaited me? And how, despite anticipating for so many months, everything turned out completely different from what I had expected.

Patagonia is an indomitable land, where even if you can predict the weather conditions, when you make your journey, everything can change very quickly. In some cases you can even see all the seasons of the year pass on the same day. However, and this is something we adventurers understand, it is the changes in a journey that allow us to tell stories. 

For example, on one occasion I was sailing through the Patagonian fjords at the mouth of the explorers' valley, very close to the Ofqui isthmus and heading towards the town of Caleta Tortel in the Aysén region, one of the most inhospitable spots in Patagonia. My objective was to see one of the largest whale cemeteries in the world, but what I found surprised me even more.

The tour was progressing between immense glaciers, during a particularly beautiful day and this somehow made me a bit anxious. I didn't know what a whale graveyard looked like, but the very idea seemed powerful. Come to think of it, it's funny how we were drawn in some sense to death, something we people spend our whole lives avoiding. 

The guide and captain of our boat explained to us that whales mysteriously come to this place to die. Some attribute this to something mystical, a kind of code between whales that drives them to come and strand on this coast, an area known as the "end of the world". While others say it is due to climate change or more earthly reasons. What is certain is that this phenomenon is so frequent on the coasts of Aysén, that it is in itself a tourist attraction.

We approached the area, our boat turned left and I had all my senses alert, with a high expectation of what I was going to find.

-We're coming," said our guide.

-Excellent," I replied. 

It was a point of calm waters surrounded by small mountains and a bit of mist, I could see a beach that was not very big, but in which, according to what we had been told, dozens of whale remains were piled up. On one occasion they counted up to 300! That's when I looked up, and then it hit me... there was nothing, not even the remains of a penguin! The captain must have guessed my frustration, and said to me:  

-It looks like there have been no whales for days. I dare say weeks, because no one here moves these things, they must have been washed out to sea again. 

I think my disappointment was evident, and then the captain blurts out one of the phrases that best describes this place:

-Don Alex, Patagonia is sometimes like that... capricious.

-Don't worry captain, it was a nice trip and enough things have surprised me in the time I've been here.

-That's right Alex, and I'm sure more surprises await you on the way, you know that "he who hurries in Patagonia, loses".

On the way back I really enjoyed the scenery and it is indeed some of the most stunning scenery I have ever seen. The captain's phrase allowed me to remind myself of something that I usually keep in mind in my adventures, the expectation of the destination should not prevent me from enjoying what I am experiencing. 

This type of experience has allowed me to strengthen Tolhuin Expeditions, because what can you expect from a land where anything can happen? Fortunately the experience has taught me things, such as planning the perfect season in which to visit different places in the immense Patagonia, including some of the most inhospitable and wonderful places in the world. 

*Traveller's tip: Whale season in Patagonia: January to May (summer-autumn).

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Patagonia is full of landscapes to explore

Although Patagonia is characterized by its glaciers and mountains, it is such an immense place that you can find beaches, lagoons, snow-capped volcanoes, rock formations such as the marble chapels or a medieval-looking hill, Cerro Castillo, or the imposing and curious Torres del Avellano. 

And of course, although its name doesn't suggest it, one of the most interesting places you can find is the Pumalín - Douglas Tompkins National Park on the Carretera Austral.

I started on the "Darwin's Little Frog" trail, which is 2.5 kilometers long and takes about 1 hour and 30 minutes, along a very well marked path, wooded and wet, but quite pleasant to walk.

This park is relatively new. It was created on 28 February 2018 and has more than 400,000 hectares, of which about 296,000 hectares were donated by the American philanthropist Douglas Tompkins, founder of The North Face and Esprit brands, who had the motto "you can live off trees without cutting them down" and sought to promote the conservation of these virgin lands. 

Along the way I was able to observe a great variety of mushrooms, clearly I didn't touch any for safety, but such was the variety of shapes and colors that I managed to surprise myself, after so many years coming to Patagonia, and it still has to surprise me.

The connection with nature is incredible, it is a quiet route that is adorned with the soothing sound of a river. I was looking for water while I was still trekking, and I came face to face with one of the tallest trees I have ever seen in my life, an alerce, a species of the pine family that can grow up to 50 meters high. 

This site is very well signposted with wooden plaques indicating the number of each station. I recommend you to take the new trail that starts after station 04, it will lead you to a small waterfall of pristine water, surrounded by plants with very large leaves. In general it is a very cool trail, it goes fast and you can see a lot of animals and plants. It is also surrounded by water. 

In this park there are a bit more demanding trails. For example, there is a 3.5 kilometer trail with a steeper path up to the camping area called Ventisquero, which has a breathtaking view of the mountains. From here you can even see the Michinmahuida volcano. As you go deeper into the forest and continue climbing, the scenery and the view gets much better, but be careful walking, because there are some pointed plant leaves that are at arm's length. 

Now, this park has an incredible abundance of wildlife, but, although you could hear them all the way up, I spotted the first bird perched on a tree branch on my way back. It was about 500 meters away and was black with a red head. I had not seen a bird like it on any of my trips, and when I returned to France I was curious to know how many animals, plants and fauna are known in Patagonia. 

• Plants: about 2,500 plant species recorded. 
• Mushrooms: 10 species of Cyttaria and 31 species of Nothofagus recorded. 
• Felines: 5 species recorded in Chilean Patagonia (puma, Andean wild cat, Colo Colo cat, Guiña cat, Geoffroy's cat).
• Birds: almost 300 species recorded. 

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To get lost in Patagonia is to find yourself again

It's normal that you won't meet a single person on these routes, and this is more evident the further south you go. However, up to 10 tourists a year get lost, due to simple carelessness on routes and for periods of hours or a maximum of 1 to 2 days, while they find their way again, meet a local inhabitant who redirects them or are found by the search forces. 

What I have learned over the years is that these situations arise due to carelessness, lack of attention or excessive recklessness. Yes, it is true that there is always a risk of anything happening, but they are measured risks as long as instructions are followed.

So if you are planning to come to Patagonia, the answer is a resounding yes! It is worth traveling to Patagonia for adventure. Travel with friends, travel as a couple, travel alone, but travel.

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